Paradise Found: The West End of Negril, Jamaica
There’s chillin’ and then there’s max chillin’. The West End, less than 1km south of Negril’s Seven Mile Beach, delivers relaxation like no other place on earth. Try some cliff jumping, indulge on fresh lobster and a cold Red Stripe, catch an uninterrupted sunset, and repeat. And of course, learn some Jamaican lingo and sound silly while doing it. No problem.
Ready to explore the West End for the first time? Start here, and feel di vibes with my reggae/dancehall Spotify playlist inspired by my trips to Jamaica.
Travel Day. The West End is a scenic two-hour drive from Sangster International Airport. You’ll pass through some bustling local towns like Lucea, then later past some obnoxiously oversized all-inclusive resorts. I’d recommend getting a comfortable ride from the hotel or hiring a driver (Side note: I have never rented a car in Jamaica and would not plan on it. They drive on the other side of the road, and I love rum punch and Red Stripes too much). Before arriving in the West End, make a pit stop at Hammond’s near downtown Negril for the best Jamaican meat patties and quick service, then the grocery store for some snacks, rum, and beer.
There’s accommodations a-plenty in the West End, from AirBnb’s for $30/night to cliffside bungalows at $1,000+. I’ve stayed at Rockhouse Hotel twice.
Why I love Rockhouse: the staff is all-around awesome, easy water access, incredible food, cocktails, and fresh juices, rustic and comfortable rooms, eco-friendliness, and overall the vibe’s nice. The owners also give back to the local community in Negril through the Rockhouse Foundation.
There’s no doubt that your first day will be spent enjoying the hotel grounds wherever you stay in the West End. Alternate between lounging at the infinity pool, snacking on jerk chicken and coco bread, and snorkeling in the clear water along the cliffs, sipping a dirty banana here and there. At night, grab a front row seat of a world famous sunset.
Local, fresh lobster. You’ll find it at 3 Dives Restaurant, a few yards north of Rockhouse along the main road. Trust me, it’s worth the wait, so grab some Red Stripes, sit outside on the rustic wooden tables, and enjoy the chill Jamaican vibes. Dinner is served. Walk on back to Rockhouse for a night cap at Pushcart Rum Bar.
Day 2 - Visit a waterfall. You’re probably well-rested, and if not, load up on some Blue Mountain coffee, take a ginger shot, and hit the road for a few hours to YS Falls. It’s about two hours (there’s a theme here..) from the West End, and you’ll drive along the scenic south coast of Jamaica before arriving. There were many more tourists than I had expected when we arrived around 11am. Not surprised, given the unbelievable natural beauty of the falls. If I recall correctly, the admission was around $22 per person. No need to worry about sunscreen (the falls are completely shaded. Sunscreen also creates a slippery film on the rocks) or your phone falling in the water. There’s tons of falls attendants at the various pools who will take as many pictures/videos of you as you wish. I suggest bringing a couple bucks to tip them.
Tip: For a more lowkey waterfall experience with less tourists, Mayfield Falls (you guessed it, about two hours from the West End), is a peaceful alternative to YS. The falls are a bit smaller, so you’ll traverse right through them, as opposed to wooden stairs that line the pools and rocks of YS Falls. You’ll have a personal guide that can show you all the things that the falls have to offer (bring cash for tip and admission). Either way, bust out those Tevas, you’ll need them.
After a couple hours spent frolicking in the seven different waterfalls and cool, natural pools, you’ll be ready to head back to the blissful West End. On your way back, you can stop for a fresh coconut and peanuts at Bamboo Avenue.
An authentic, local dining experience. After spending the morning at the natural falls and the afternoon alternating between the Rockhouse pool and cliffs, visit my dear friend Vivienne for dinner at her restaurant, Erica’s Hideaway Restaurant and Bar. The restaurant’s namesake is the late mother of Vivienne’s husband, DJ. DJ is very proud of his organic garden, so come early to check it out and marvel at the size of the pumpkins he’s growing. Why I love Erica’s: delicious curried chicken, cold Red Stripes, and Vivienne’s stories. She’s also very welcoming and proud of their cozy establishment. After Erica’s, stop at Rocker’s Bar and Grill, a local, late night watering hole along the main road with a circular, thatched roof bar and friendly bartenders.
Day 3. May I suggest spending day three on… a bar crawl? First things first: grab an authentic Jamaican breakfast somewhere like Sips & Bites. You’ll need all the root vegetables, ackee and saltfish, and festivals you can get.
There’s probably hundreds of unique, local bars nestled throughout the West End. For me, day drinking is something I’m actually very good at, so naturally, I can’t turn down an organized pub crawl. On Wednesdays, Fridays, or Saturdays, hop on the One Love Bus Bar Crawl hosted by Lenbert (must book in advance) to hit up cliffside bars and some more off-the-beaten path spots up in the hills. You’ll even stop by Lenbert’s house to visit his beautiful wife and their bar/cafe/art gallery.
DIY Bar Crawl. If you miss the One Love Crawl, don’t fret, mon. I’ve created a walking bar crawl along West End Road that will hit both must-see hotel bars and smaller, lowkey bars. Start at the Sands, the onsite bar at the luxury Caves Hotel. Stop #2 is Sir D’s, where you’ll enjoy some cold bevvies, great company, and another breathtaking cliffside view. Walk down West End Road a bit further to stop at LTU Pub for a drink and a snack, before visiting the touristy Rick’s Cafe. I threw in Rick’s because you’ll probably want to take a dip, as it will likely be hot, hot, hot. Then, Ivan’s Bar cannot be missed. Known for exceptional customer service and beautiful grounds, it’s located at the Catcha Falling Star resort. Lastly, grab some of Negril’s finest jerk at Kool Vybes Jerk Centre.
View the West End bar crawl map here.
The coldest Red Stripes in Negril: Found. No trip to Negril is complete without a stop at Collette’s Bar. Collette’s is located a mile or so up from the main road (take a route taxi, which are distinguished by their red license plates, for a few dollars) between the beaches and cliffs. Collette has a welcoming smile and fun personality, and she’ll make each and every person feel special. Just don’t be surprised if you end up dancing on the chairs or bar, or enjoying Collette’s fried chicken or stew. Come one, come all, and just don’t expect to leave Collette’s sober.
No problems, only situations. Three days on the West End is never enough. The people, food, sunsets, and water will make you want to stay for much, much longer.
Need help planning your visit? Contact me, and get you connected with my dear friends in the West End and provide recommendations based on your travel style. I also highly suggest joining the Capital of Casual Facebook group, a mix of Negril die-hards, first-timers, and locals and expats alike. It’s a great way to stay connected and ask questions about things to do/see/experience when you’re in Negril.
Soon come, mon.